Loan types

Six loan types, six honest explainers.

Each loan type has its own structure, its own ideal borrower, and its own gotchas. Here's the breakdown, with links to the calculator and guide for each.

Reviewed May 2026 · Independent housing-cost intelligence

Conventional

Conventional loans.

The default U.S. mortgage. Not government-insured. Follows Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac underwriting guidelines. Requires stronger credit (typically 620+) and uses private mortgage insurance (PMI) when the down payment is under 20%. PMI is removable; this is the structural advantage of Conventional over FHA. Down payment can be as low as 3% with strong credit, more typically 5–20%.

FHA

FHA loans.

Insured by the Federal Housing Administration. Designed for buyers with lower credit (580+ FICO with 3.5% down) or smaller down payments. Charges an upfront 1.75% mortgage insurance premium plus monthly MIP. Critically, monthly MIP lasts the life of the loan if down payment is under 10%; otherwise it drops at year 11. Many buyers use FHA to enter, then refinance to Conventional once equity allows.

VA

VA loans.

Available to qualifying veterans, active-duty service members, and surviving spouses. Zero down payment required. No private mortgage insurance — ever. Charges a one-time funding fee (1.25%–3.3% of loan, depending on service category and down payment). The lack of PMI is the key advantage; over a long hold, VA is often cheaper than Conventional even with the funding fee.

  • Best for: Eligible veterans/service members, especially with limited cash to close or planning long holds.
  • Calculator: VA vs Conventional · Guide: VA loan guide
USDA

USDA loans.

For rural and some suburban areas designated by the USDA. Zero down payment. Income limits apply (typically 115% of area median income). Charges a 1% upfront guarantee fee and a 0.35% annual fee, both lower than FHA equivalents. Often the cheapest option for eligible buyers in eligible locations — but eligibility is narrow.

  • Best for: Buyers in USDA-eligible zones with moderate income.
  • For modeling USDA loans: Use the True Monthly Cost calculator with manually-entered fees. USDA's guarantee fee and annual fee structure is documented on the USDA Rural Development site.
Jumbo

Jumbo loans.

Loans above the conforming loan limit (which varies by county, but generally above ~$766K). Underwriting is stricter — typically 700+ FICO, larger down payments (often 10–20%), and substantial cash reserves required. Rates can be slightly above or below conforming, depending on the lender and the borrower profile.

  • Best for: High-cost markets, strong-credit borrowers with large down payments.
  • Calculator: True Monthly Cost handles jumbo loans the same as conventional from a math perspective.
ARM

Adjustable-rate mortgages.

Fixed for an initial period (5, 7, or 10 years), then adjusts annually based on a benchmark index plus a margin. Rates during the fixed period are often lower than 30-year fixed rates. The trade-off: you carry the rate risk after the fixed period ends. Rational for buyers with a confirmed shorter hold — sale, refinance to fixed, or expected income jump that makes the reset manageable.

FAQ

Common loan-type questions.

What loan type should I compare first?
For most U.S. buyers, the first comparison is FHA vs. conventional — the choice between the lower entry barrier (FHA) and the lower lifetime cost (conventional, when you qualify). If you have military service eligibility, run VA against both. The FHA vs. Conventional calculator is the right starting point; the long-form guide covers the structural mortgage-insurance difference that usually decides the question over a 7+ year hold.
What's the actual difference between FHA and conventional?
FHA is government-insured; conventional isn't. FHA accepts lower credit (down to 580 routinely) and lower down payments (3.5%) but charges a 1.75% upfront mortgage insurance premium and lifetime monthly MIP on most modern loans. Conventional requires 620+ credit and typically 5%+ down, but its PMI ends automatically at 78% LTV by federal law. Over a 30-year hold, the lifetime MIP-vs-PMI difference is usually $50,000–$100,000+ on similar loan sizes. Full breakdown in the guide.
Is VA always the best loan if I qualify?
For most VA-eligible borrowers, yes. No down payment, no monthly mortgage insurance, and competitive rates is a structurally hard combination to beat. The funding fee (typically 2.15% first use, 3.3% subsequent use) is the trade — it's financed into the loan and is usually recovered in 18–30 months by the absence of PMI. The edge cases where VA isn't optimal: subsequent-use borrowers putting 20%+ down (where conventional with no PMI may pencil out better) and condition-issue properties that won't pass VA's minimum property requirements. The VA loan guide walks through the eligibility and funding-fee math.
What's the trade-off between ARM and fixed?
ARM gives a lower starting rate (typically 50–125 basis points below 30-year fixed) for a defined fixed period, then adjusts annually. Fixed gives certainty for the life of the loan. ARMs are rational for borrowers whose realistic horizon is shorter than the fixed period (5/1, 7/1, 10/1) and whose budget can absorb the lifetime-cap payment. Fixed is right for long holds, stable income, and households where payment predictability has real value. Run the ARM vs. Fixed calculator with the worst-case reset modeled before deciding — if the cap payment fits the budget, the ARM bet is rational; if it doesn't, take the fixed.
How much does mortgage insurance actually matter?
More than most borrowers price it. On a $340,000 loan, conventional PMI at 0.75% costs about $213/month and ends at year 9–10 by automatic termination — total cost ~$22,000. FHA MIP on the same loan at 0.85% runs $241/month for the life of the loan — total cost ~$87,000 over 30 years. The structural difference is decisive on long holds. The PMI guide covers the federal removal rules; the PMI calculator shows your specific numbers.
Are low-down-payment loans always worse long-term?
Not always. The "wait until you have 20% down" framing assumes saving an additional 10–15% of purchase price is faster and cheaper than paying PMI for 4–6 years until appreciation reaches the threshold. In appreciating markets and stable incomes, that math frequently favors buying earlier with PMI rather than waiting. The down payment strategy calculator compares 5%, 10%, 15%, and 20% down side-by-side on the same purchase, so you can see the real trade-off rather than the rule of thumb.
Which loan-type pages include calculators?
Three direct comparison calculators handle most questions: FHA vs. Conventional, VA vs. Conventional, and ARM vs. Fixed. For loan-structure decisions inside a single program, PMI, Down Payment Strategy, and Closing Cost handle most of the remaining questions. All financing calculators live in the Financing hub.
Does OwningCost recommend specific lenders or products?
No. We don't accept payment from lenders, brokers, or insurance companies, and there's no preferred-lender list anywhere on the site. The calculators surface the math; the loan you choose is your decision, made with the lender of your choice. If we ever introduce a paid relationship with a lender, it will be disclosed in plain language on every affected page and won't influence which loan structures we recommend.
Pick the right structure

Run the loan-type comparison that matches your situation.

FHA vs Conventional handles the most common decision. VA vs Conventional applies if you qualify. ARM vs Fixed covers the rate-vs-stability trade.